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SKIN STRUCTURE
by Ben Fuchs
Rocky Mountain Natural Labs
Boulder, Colorado

Dynamic and Mosaic – constant and differentiated renewal Protection, Temp Regulation, Sensory Reception, Sexual Attraction, Excretion. Also involved in bone strength.
Largest organ- between 6 and 7 pounds, 1/25th to 1/8th inch thick (epidermis 17-500 microns!). TURNOVER- 10 billion cells a day!

EACH SQUARE INCH CONTAINS:

100 oil glands ,15 feet blood vessels, 65 hairs, 234 feet of nerves 650 sweat glands,
9.5 million cells, 1300 nerve endings, 20,000 sensory cells, 250
sense organs

  1. EPIDERMIS: Basal-keratinocytes (90-95% of epidermal cells); Spiny-attachments; Granular-lamellar bodies (lipids); S.C.- hard dried cells, corneocytes. Cells migrate upward from basal going from live and plump to dead and flat (28 days)
  2. DERMIS: Support structure nerves, blood , organs support. Intermediates INSIDE and OUTSIDE Papillary-Ground Substance (GAG, MPS) and Reticular– tight fibers (collagen, elastin ).
  3. GAG’S = HYALURONIC ACID, CHONDROITAN, HEPARIN

  4. SUBCUTANEOUS: connective tissue and fatty insulation.

SKIN MAINTAINED BY:
bulletKeratinocytes – moves from basal to sc
bulletLipids – phospholipids, glycolipds, cholesterol -maintain barreir and lipophillicity
bulletMelanocyte - produces granules of colore ranging from brown-black (eumelanin) to yellow-red (phaeomelanin) to red-yellow (tricochrome).
bulletprotective function, free radical scavanging
bulletImmune cells -langerhans, macrophage,lymphocytes
bulletFibroblast- produces components in dermal amorphous mesh called "ground substance"
bulletCOLLAGEN – most abundant body protein (1/3 body weight)
bulletELASTIN – 1-2% of skin, elastic nature
bulletGAG’s - moisture binding, NMF involvement

AGING SKIN:
bulletReduced dermal/epidermal adhesion results in diminished nutrient transfer.
bulletReduced epidermal turnover.
bulletReduced melanocytes, immune cells.
bulletDermal drying.
bulletElastin changes in thickness, flexibility.
bulletEnzyme decline results in decreases in collagen, ground substance.
bulletDecreases in blood vessels, sebum, sweat.

 

NUTRITION BASICS

MACRONUTRITION:

PROTEIN-Whey is the best, Soy, Egg, Bean should be included too. Maybe some fish and dairy. Meat only if you have to.
SKIN- comprises structural components of skin; healthy skin requires enzyme (protein)activation; new cell growth requires protein ; immunity

FATS: Mostly unsaturated, Raw flaxseed and sunflower/safflower (ideally cold-pressed) DAILY, EFA’s!!
SKIN- keeps skin moist and soft, maintains barrier function, involved in immunity and inflammation and vitamin production (via cholesterol)

CARBO’S-Complex i.e. grains starch veggies.

SKIN – involved in N.M.F. lactic acid, GAG’s have carbohydrate-like chemical nature, involved in (skin) cell energy production.

FIBER-Raw veggies best.
SKIN – helps prevent skin toxicity

WATER-Lots of Distilled Water
SKIN – prevents dehydration of skin, maintains electrolyte balance, prevents skin toxicity

MICRONUTRITION

VITAMINS

Fat Soluble D – regulation of calcium
SKIN – involved in cell growth

K – clotting factors
SKIN – blood vessel integrity, bruising

E - mixed Tocopherol best, detoxifier
SKIN- healing, anti-oxidant

A – modulates cell growth
SKIN – controls hyperkeratinosis which can cause acne, folliculitis, fibroblast stimulation (induction of ground substance)

Water Soluble C- very important, needs regular supplementation. DRINK IT !!!

SKIN- anti-oxidant, photo-protective, collagen synthesis

B-COMPLEX- very important, needs regular - supplementation - DRINK IT !!!
SKIN – energy regulation, liver/adrenal support, new cell growth

MINERALS Broad spectrum colloidal mineral supplement

Additional Zinc/Copper, Calcium/Magnesium, Potassium
SKIN – detoxification, wound healing, co-function in cell growth biochemistry

CLEAN / TONE / MOISTURIZE / TREAT

  1. Clean: Soap-free, pH balanced or stimulatory
    Low detergency, AHA’s work great here
    Because it’s washed off you can use more intense formulations.
  2. Tone: On damp skin apply treatment,
    AHA’s perfect there
    Alcohol and oil-free
    Vitamin C -water soluble here
  3. Moisturize: Oil and water don’t mix.
    Be Careful of preservatives, fragrance
    100% active is nice, wax is for candles (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol etc.)
  4. Treat: USE VITAMINS!!
    Especially anti-oxidants (C, E, A) , K, GLA, GAG, NATURAL MOISTURE FACTOR Immune stimulators.

PRODUCT PHILOSOPHY

bulletBIOGENIC
bulletNON-COMEDOGENIC
bulletUSE OILS SPARINGLY – Jojoba is non-comedogenic, similar to human sebum, cleansers only
bulletEASY ON BOTANICALS they’re medicine- simples
bulletDON’T OVERFORMULATE – synergistic toxicity
bulletTHE SKIN IS AN ORGAN FEED IT
bulletBEAUTY FROM THE INSIDE OUT- THE PYRAMID
bulletSIMULTANEOUS STIMULATION (AHA AND BHA’s) WITH NOURISHMENT (VITS, EFAs)
bulletWATCH OUT FOR WAXES AND EMULSIFYNG AGENTS
bulletSTICK WITH HIGH ACTIVES, SMALL DOSAGE

 ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

Acid material found in fruits and foods

Differing size and chemistry accounts for differing effects.

Speed cellular transit and turnover, unglue dead skin (corneocytes)

May also increase growth of dermal support structure and GAGs.

Anti-bacterial properties too.

Chemical structure similar to Vitamin C (anti-oxidant properties?)

Non-toxic

High concentrations result in epidermolysis leading to skin rejuvenation

pH and pKa factors as important as concentration.

Benefits: softening and diminution of fine lines and wrinkles

skin retexturization

improve skin tone and clarity

evening of pigment

acne control

improved skin radiance

improved skin elasticity

improvements in photoagied, acne scars etc.

Possible problems slight and include redness, mild breakouts, allergic reactions, dryness.

 CHEMICAL PEELING

bulletThins and compacts s.c.
bulletThickens epidermis
bulletIncreases deposition of GAG, collagen and ground substance.
bulletImproves acne scarring, photodamage
bulletImproves firmness and elasticity
bullethyperpigmentation issues,
bulletprophylaxis: retinoids, hydroquinone, nutrition (topical and systemic) AHAs can lead to faster wound healing, better results, less hyperpigmentation
bulletSunscreening after peel
bulletNutrition can accelerate healing time, improve prognosis.
bulletEvery 2 weeks then maintain monthly.
bulletBody peeling too.
bulletCareful of potential herpetic breakout.

BASIC SKIN PEEL SYSTEM

STEP #1: Cleanse face thoroughly, lathering well, using gentle, massage like motions and rinsing with lukewarm water. Finish up with light facial sponging.

STEP #2: Pre-treat skin by applying solution to cotton ball or gauze pad and gently exfoliating skin. Keep treating until pads come off clean. This will remove sebum and prepare skin for actual peeling.

STEP #3: Apply skin peel solution using featherbrush and gently painting area. Very strong peeling agents should be left on NO MORE THAN 15 – 180 seconds. All other strengths should be left on 1-5 minutes. Keep in mind some skin (cheeks, around eyes) will peel more readily and should be carefully monitored.

End point is a ROSY PINK skin color. It is helpful to note time to erythrema (redness) after each peel.

STEP #4: Spray neutralizer to peeled area to immediately stop the peeling process. Follow with cool water rinse.

STEP #5: Apply 1-2 drops topical vitamins and work in well. Instruct patient to keep skin moisturized for several days until healing is complete.

Skin-Lighteners and Sunscreens should be used to prevent hyperpigmentation, especially for darker skin types.

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* These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. This information is nutritional in nature and should not be construed as medical advice. This notice is required by the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act.

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Last modified: June 28, 2015